I did not see Willie Nelson on the Fourth of July.
If I had walked out the gate at midnight — 12 full hours after I arrived — I would have spent a whole Picnic without seeing the man I came to see.
Fortunately, I stuck it out another 15 minutes, time enough to see Willie join the Reflectacles (we'll get to them in a bit) for "This Land is Our Land" and continue on through "Whiskey River" and "On the Road Again" before I was limping back to the car.
It wasn't that I cared about beating traffic. I was just beat. Hands swollen, forearms sunburned, feet aching. At 39 years old (give or take 10 days), I am not too old or too fat to stand in the sun all damn day long and listen to music.
But it's getting harder. Much harder.
I suppose next year — and with the crowd response to this one, I've gotta believe Willie will do it again — next year I could have lost 40 pounds, shown up a couple hours later and I'll make it through the last encore standing in front of the stage. But the odds are more likely that next year I'm gonna find a way to get me some of those nice VIP seats, with the adirondack chairs on a deck with private bar and bathrooms.
In true journalism fashion, let's start with the end:
Ray Price had just finished his set (and he sounded great), and the emcee, Dallas Wayne (who was in a constant state of confusion all day), told us Leon Russell was coming right up. Well, Leon kept us waiting a half-hour, including a full 10 minutes after the stage was set.
After Leon's noisy set, the emcee told us that Willie Nelson was "coming up next." Now, I knew that the Reflectacles (with drummer Micah Nelson, kin to you-know-who) had not yet played, but God and Jeezus it was past 11:30, I was hoping that they'd play alongside Willie.
No such luck. A half-dozen whip-thin hipster kids took the stage and played a half-dozen jangly songs, including a bloated "Man of Constant Sorrow." They had a guy come out on stage and punctuate the end of their first song with some fire breathing. They took time out to throw some reflectacles to the crowd (they look like 3-D glasses, but "make you see rainbows" apparently).
It was the most self-indulgent, self-congratulatory spectacle I've seen in quite some time. Now, if they had, for example, played a late-afternoon set in place of, say, Los Lonely Boys, I would have been in an entirely different frame of mind. But after you've been at the Picnic for 11+ hours and someone says Willie's next … let me just say, it sucks. I know that's Willie's kid. But I'm gonna say it anyway.
Then they brought out Gail Swanson, who played a song with them and, honest to God, introduced it as "This is a song I wrote when my boyfriend forgot my birthday." And proceeded to sing us a coffeehouse ballad.
Some in the crowd were actually heckling her. I won't be so mean. I'll just say there's a time and a place for her talents and this was not it. And if she started to play a second song I was gonna leave right then.
No, the Reflectacles took us through one more snazzy number and, right when the crowd was ready to revolt, brought out dad for "This Land is Our Land," along with Kris Kristofferson, Ray Benson and others. Willie took that right into "Whiskey River."
Whether he ended up playing at all with his band, I don't know. And, really, that kind of bites. But I did what I could do. And I was SOBER. (Really.) Even then, I had a hard time staying between the lines on the drive back home, I was that tired.
It was a different story when I arrived at noon, full of hope for a good Picnic. I parked in a semi-muddy spot and was surprised to see a sizable crowd of several thousand were already there.
On the stage, got me misty-eyed for a moment, was the life-size wood sculpture of Poodie, brought over from Poodie's Hilltop. Looks like Willie's late stage manager isn't going to miss any Picnics after all.
I had missed three acts (and, I hear, the only Willie appearance before 12:05 a.m.) but Pauline Reese did a fine job of opening the Picnic for me. Jody Nix and the Texas Cowboys were the class of the early acts, though, putting a late-night-dancehall effort into a just-after-noon show.
The New Backyard had an unmistakeable Austin stamp: A popsicle stand selling Hibiscus Mint popsicles.
I only tried out two of the food stands. Giovanni's pizza was $5 a slice. Smokey Mo's chopped beef sandwiches were $6. The food stands, however, would prove to be the No. 1 problem of the Picnic logistics. They would be, by late afternoon, overwhelmed. I had a chopped beef sandwich at 3 p.m. At 5 p.m. I stood in line for 30 minutes for a pizza slice and it's a good thing I did. By 7 p.m. the lines were ridiculous. By 9 p.m. just about every place was sold out.
Freddie Powers got a warm reception from the crowd at 1:20 p.m. And he told the best jokes, to boot. Among them: "Looking at all these pretty girls in front of the stage is like looking at a rose garden." Long pause for the crowd to go "aww." Then the elderly Powers continued: "Every now and then there's a weed or two."
It would be the last time weed was mentioned in a gardening sense that day.
One of the things the Backyard did right was placing large water tanks with multiple spigots around the venue. All you had to do was buy one bottle of water ($2.50) and you could refill it as many times as you wished. By the end of the day, the water in the "Water Monsters" was a little warm, but it's a lot easier to convince people to stay hydrated when they don't have to pay $2-3 for every bottle of water. It was a very smart move.
Just short of 2 p.m., Kevin Fowler gets the first big roar from the crowd. I've got to say his song "Pound Sign" is one of the stupidest, most inane songs I've ever heard from a Texas artist.
In what was the absolute injustice of the day, Ray Wylie Hubbard went on at 2:15 p.m. and just destroyed a four-song set. "Snake Farm" was great, "Drunken Poet's Dream" even better. "Redneck Mother" brought a shaky David Allan Coe out to the stage and "Wanna Rock 'n' Roll" showcased Lucas Hubbard's guitar work, which is becoming awfully, awfully good. Hubbard should have had Paula Nelson's spot about 8 p.m. For the last several Picnics, Hubbard has been one of the artists best able to gear his set to the Picnic atmosphere. And yet he's been wasted on the dead-afternoon time slots. Damn.
Jamey Johnson owes me about an hour of my life. His stage set-up would be the most drawn-out until it was Leon Russell's turn. And Jamey spent several songs working on his "I'm the baddest thing since David Allan Coe" impression. This included starting to play his big radio hit "In Color," then stopping, saying something I couldn't quite make out and playing George Jones' "Still Doin' Time" instead. Then walking off stage.
Oooh. He refused to do his big song. That's a baaad man.
There were some bad men at the Picnic. Saw several "White Pride" tattoos. Guys in outlaw shirts smoking weed. And, there were also plenty of young folks. Kids I wouldn't have expected to have any interest in the Picnic. And some people brought their kids. Toddlers, infants. Man, I would never, never do it.
Five p.m. at the Picnic is always the most packed it's gonna be. The old folks haven't gone home yet. Most of the late arrivals are all there. And you could feel the strain as a sold-out 7,500 were jammed in, from stage to gate. I went to get another barbecue sandwich and found them to be sold out.
In that 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. stretch, Randy Rogers wasn't that bad. Johnny Bush was pretty good. Folk Uke was profanely charming. Or is that charmingly profane? And Kris Kristofferson was one the Picnic's highlights, playing alone with his guitar and getting a huge response from the Austin crowd.
All in all, the crowd was fantastic. They gave their love to the legends, they hollered for the young folks. Only in Austin would you see such respect.
And then there's Jack Ingram. He played late and talked way too much. His set wasn't all that great, but his moment came when he was playing "Love You." You've heard it? The "Love" is a stand-in for another four-letter word. Yeah, the song goes something like this: "Love you, love this town, love this mother-lovin' truck that keeps breakin' lovin' down."
Anyway, Jack is up there on stage singing this for all he's worth, looking pretty pleased with how tough he is singing this euphemism.
And I'm thinking about David Allan Coe earlier in the day, who got up on stage, and pointed out that he doesn't get a lot of radio air play "because I say MOTHER FUCKER a whole lot!"
He was live on Sirius XM radio when he said it.
Coe's set, by the way, wasn't as entertaining as those metal-hip-hop-hybrids he did at the Fort Worth picnics, and he seemed awfully shaky, but he did not mail it in. He put on a good show. Love him or hate him, he's hard to ignore.
All in all, it was a good Picnic. It was a good experience. By tomorrow I should be recovered enough to start thinking of it even more fondly.
Oh yeah. I took some pictures. And some video. Bad video, but video nonetheless. I hope to post some of that tomorrow.
Recent Comments